Car Starting Problems

Imagine you waking up early, getting ready, and planning to go to work or an outing with the family, and you car doesn’t start. It’s sure to be the start of a bad day. People use cars for traveling to and fro. In their busy lives, there is no time for car starting problems. Car ignition problems can be very frustrating, which can result in you being late for office, cancel or delay your picnic plans, or put you in a state where you need to borrow someone’s car or ask for a lift. There are many reasons for a car to not start, which need to be diagnosed. The problems may vary from the battery to sensor. There are some tests that need to be performed for diagnosing the problem, some are very simple but some need a car mechanic. The car not starting can be a common problem in cold winters when the engine gets so cold.

Things Needed for the Engine to Start

The starter motor turns the engine on, which needs a decently charged battery, a starter motor and a starter circuit in working condition. Fuel mixed with air is a necessary constituent for the engine to start. There also must be an effective spark to ignite the fuel and air mixture. The valves of the engine should be able to open and close at the correct time. There should be a proper compression in the cylinders. A normal compression needed to start the car is 120-170 psi. The engine won’t start if it is any lower than 70-80 psi. If the car doesn’t start, one or more of the above mentioned things are missing.

Conditions of a No-start Engine

The Starter doesn’t Crank
If there is no crank from the engine when you turn the ignition key, there is a problem in the starter motor which is unable to start the engine. A dead or low battery could be a possible reason for this. But if you are sure that the battery is fine, and the car is not cranking still, there could be many reasons for that. The most common problem is of the ignition switch which may be problematic. There can be a wrong or bad connection with the wires which control the starter motor. There is a ‘neutral safety switch’ installed in automatic transmission cars that allows the starter to operate only when the transmission is in ‘park’ or ‘neutral’ position. When the switch is faulty or shifter is not in the needed position, the starter won’t crank. Cars that have manual transmission have a switch at the clutch pedal that allows the car to start only when the pedal is pressed. If there is an issue with the clutch pedal switch, the starter won’t function.

Starter Click but no Crank
A discharged or low battery can be a reason when you only hear a normal click sound from the starter but no crank. If the battery is good, there can be defects in the starter solenoid, cables, or the starter motor.

Crank but the Engine doesn’t Start
There can be various issues if the engine doesn’t start after you hear a crank. This means your starter doesn’t have any problem. There can be issues with the fuel system like a bad fuel pump, fuel pump relay, or a clogged fuel screen. The engine’s electronic system also can be at fault with problems in the crank sensor, cam sensor, air flow sensor, power relay, or engine computer. There can be some ignition system defects such as a defunct ignition coil, switch, commutator, rotor, or distributor cap. There is also a slight chance of problems that include a broken timing belt or gear and low compression.

For preventing such car starting problems, one should ensure that there is enough fuel in the tank, a well-charged battery installed, and enough engine oil. Periodic servicing and checking of the car should also be done by an authorized professional mechanic.

Fuel Pressure Regulator Problems

A fuel pressure regulator is a device located between the fuel source and the engine. It can be found by simply following the fuel line or rail which carries fuel to the engine. A problem in the regulator can result into no supply of fuel to the engine, which in turn can lead to a breakdown. Mentioned below are some tests that you can carry out yourself to gage any issues with the fuel pressure regulator.

Test 1

You can test the regulator to check the symptoms of a problem with the help of a fuel pressure gauge.

– Insert the gauge along the system line in a testing port provided in the assembly.
– In case the testing port is absent, use a fuel filter hose to bypass the line by inserting the gauge along the arrangement.
– Check the reading of the fuel pressure.
– If the reading is between 45 p.s.i. to 55 p.s.i. for the injection mechanism and 14 p.s.i. to 18 p.s.i. in the throttle bottle injection assembly, your regulator is fine.
– A large deviation from the above mentioned ranges can be a sign of a potential problem.

Test 2

– Sharply strike the pressure gauge which is connected to the throttle arrangement.
– For a normal functioning pump, the pressure reading should rise by 5 p.s.i. approximately.
– A drop in the reading indicates a flaw in the regulator. This may be due to a faulty pump or clogging of the filter with some impurity.
– Remove the pump from the system and clean or replace it by a new one. Make sure that you retest the system on reinstalling the setup.

Test 3

Another test involves the regulator and fuel pump. To conduct the test,

– Start the engine and after allowing it to idle, carefully notice the vacuum line being displaced by the gauge.
– The reading should rise to show about 5 p.s.i. to 10 p.s.i.
– If it does not show any change, the regulator has a problem, specifically with the vacuum line.
– The regulation can be brought back to normal functioning by changing the regulator and by testing the new one for usability.

Minor car problems are usually a result of an abnormal pressure conditions in the fuel system. A high reading can result in heavy emissions. The problems arising out of this can be misfiring, clogging of system, racing and so on. On the other hand, a low pressure in the fuel regulator may cause a delayed or no start, misfiring and abrupt ignition.

Regulator problems are easy to detect. It is very essential to keep fuel pressure in the proper operating region for a longer and smooth engine life. So, the next time you sense a slight glitch or hiccup with the working of the engine, it is time for thorough checkup of the vehicle.

How to Fix an Oil Leak

Normally, cars experience a wide range of leaks, ranging from automatic transmission fluid leak to that of windshield washer fluid. However, none of these leaks is as common as an engine oil leak. Engine oil plays the dual role of a coolant and lubricant, so it’s obvious that its shortage will reflect badly on the overall functioning of the car. Thus, it is important to find and fix the leak before it leads to further complications.

How to Diagnose and Fix an Oil Leak?

A small pool of oil beneath your car is the most obvious sign of an oil leak. However, it is highly unlikely that you will check the ground just to see if there are any traces of oil. The simplest method of diagnosing this problem is to spread a newspaper beneath the car at night and check it for oil stains the next morning.

The next step is to find the source of leak beneath the hood. It will be difficult to trace the leak in an engine totally smeared with oil, and hence, you will have to degrease it to find the source. Check all the bolts in the engine, as loose bolts are most likely to cause oil leak. You can also use a dipstick to determine whether you are losing oil; this is yet another indicator of an underlying leak.

Issues With the Valve Cover and Oil Filter
In most of the cases, engine oil leak is traced to valve covers―loosening of bolts which fix the valve covers to be precise. If the leak is not very serious, you can simply tighten the cover bolts and the problem will be fixed. However, if the problem is major you may have to opt for new valve cover gasket to fix the same.

Besides this, you also need to note that oil leak is not just restricted to valve covers. Any damage to the oil filter or oil pan can also trigger this problem. Before you chalk out the repair plan, you will also have to check whether the oil filter is properly fixed or not (and do the needful.) If it is not fixed properly, the chances of oil leakage will just increase.

Issues With the Oil Plug
At times, people fail to fix the oil drain plug properly after changing the oil, which, in turn, causes oil seepage. In this case, you will have to check whether the oil drain plug has been fixed properly or not, and do the needful. There are cases wherein people forget to replace the washer while fixing the oil drain plug. The resultant pressure on the oil pan damages it, as a result of which oil starts trickling out. If this is the problem, you will have to plug the hole using an over-sized drain plug.

Issues With the Oil Pan
Damage―in the form of a hole―can also be caused to the oil pan as a result of running over a rock or bumping into raised ground. If the resultant hole is not very big, you will be able to fix it by plugging a bolt into it. On the other hand, if it is very big, you will have to resort to welding. You need to keep in mind that the bolt method is just a temporary arrangement. You will have to get it fixed at a car workshop, so as to ensure that it doesn’t worsen with time.

Note: It goes without saying that you will have to drain all the oil when you are working on the oil pan.

Even problems with engine seal can trigger an oil leak. When the engine seal breaks down, the gap created in it allows the oil to seep out. In such a situation, you can resort to some stop leak product to fix this problem.

Cost incurred in repairing oil leaks depends on which part of the car has been damaged. You can fix some simple damages on your own, while others may require professional expertise. While there is no questioning the fact that oil leaks or any other car problem for that matter can be fixed, you need to understand that these problems can be avoided in the first place by giving priority to the basic maintenance of the car. Car maintenance won’t just help you to continue with your smooth rides, but will also ensure that car repairs don’t make a hole in your wallet.

Symptoms of a Bad Control Arm Bushing

Symptoms of a bad control arm bushing
Did You Know?
Control arms have been used in automobile suspensions for close to a century.
Most people consider a vehicle’s entire suspension system as ‘one’ part. The fact is, it is made up of several components which play different roles. One such component is the control arm, which is mostly found in the front wheels, though some trucks and cars have it in the rear ones too. It connects the front suspension of the vehicle to its frame. There are two control arms in the suspension―upper and lower―and they contain a rubber bushing at the end. This is made up of a rubber lining encased between two metal sleeves.Such placement and compact design of the bushing is done on purpose; it helps cushion the vehicle from small bumps and vibrations, which a spring cannot. The inner metal sleeve is connected to car frame via a center bar. The outer sleeve is connected to the wheel assembly via the control arm. Thus, both the sleeves move independently from each other, and it is the rubber bushing which provides a lubrication between them. Considering that they bear a huge amount of stress with every drive, these bushings wear out pretty fast by becoming hard and cracking. Let us see how to identify a bad control arm bushing from its symptoms.

Symptoms
Steering
Steering problems are one of the first indications of a damaged control bushing. The steering may lose a bit of its responsiveness. At high speeds, it may even start ‘wandering’, or make the vehicle turn erratically. The driver can feel the wheel vibrate while in motion. The vehicle may start leaning to one side, to some degree, when taking sharp turns.
Drive Comfort
A bad bushing will compromise driving performance and comfort. Since the purpose of the control arm bushing is to cushion against small bumps, a damaged one will not be as effective, resulting in vibrations throughout the drive. In case of extreme damage, when the rubber bushing is completely worn out, the metal sleeves of the control arm will begun to rattle, resulting in an unpleasant ‘clunking’ noise from the front end, especially while turning or reversing. Moreover, the wheel with a damaged bushing will begin to wobble while driving.
Braking
A sudden improvement in braking efficiency can, as strange as it may seem, be attributed to a damaged control arm bushing. This is because the forward and backward oscillation of the control arm is not achieved during braking due to bushing wear. However, this effect will not be constant, making braking unstable. Moreover, when the vehicle is braked suddenly, the front end will continue to oscillate forward.
Acceleration
When accelerating from a static position, a backward movement will be observed in the rear end of the car, along with the problem of erratic steering, as explained above. When speeding, or taking a turn at slow pace, the steering starts trembling, and a tugging effect is observed.
Diagnosis
Test Drive
Take the vehicle for a drive, preferably on an empty stretch of a freeway which allows for rapid speeding, extreme turns of the wheel, and momentarily abandoning the wheel. If you observe a clunking sound, vibrations, or wheel misalignment, then this indicates a problem with the control arm bushings. Extreme maneuvers with the steering can also be tried on a large, vacant parking lot.
Wheel Alignment
A defective bushing can be checked by raising the car with a jack, or on a lifting platform, and pressing the wheel by hand. If it shows a great degree of ‘play’, meaning that if it wobbles sideways more than usual, the control arm bushing needs replacement.
Axle Slip
The vehicle can be raised on a lifting platform, and someone can apply the brakes to stop the wheel from moving. On turning the steering from left to right, someone else can observe the axle. A damaged bushing will make the axle ‘slip’ momentarily during the turning motion.
Prying Control Arm
Raise the vehicle using a jack, and using an 18″ pry bar, pry the control arm from side to side. Ideally, it should ‘spring’ back from the position it was pried to. If this doesn’t happen, and the control arm stays in its new place, the bushing is at fault. Also, observe the edges of the rubber bushing by prying aside the metal sleeve. If the control arm is not centered within the bushing, the bushing definitely needs to be replaced. A few cracks on the bushing ends are not something to worry about.
Uneven Tire Wear
When there seems to be a problem with a wheel, raise that end with a jack and get under the vehicle. Observe the edges of the tire. If it is wearing out unevenly, either from the inside or the outside, this is due to a wheel misalignment caused by a bad control arm bushing. The central tread may also show a scuffed pattern.
Some of these symptoms can also be attributed to worn-out tie rod ends, sway bar links, ball joints, or even the control arms themselves. So, when in doubt, get the vehicle examined by a professional. Whenever a worn out bushing is observed, getting it replaced is a must. Ignoring these symptoms can result in damage to other expensive suspension components. Since these bushings tend to wear out pretty soon, auto experts agree that it is a good practice to replace them once a year.

Speedometer Not Working Properly

Did You Know?
Before the invention of the speed gun, cars in the early 20th century were required to have two speedometers, one on the dashboard and one on the front fender, so that police could see how fast they were going!
A speedometer is an instrument which provides the driver with instantaneous readings of speed. Traditional speedometers used gears and wires to determine speed, while most modern vehicles use speed sensors for the same. Common problems include, a faulty sensor, bad wiring, or dial malfunctions. Troubleshooting speedometer problems mostly call for a replacement of the speed sensor or cable, depending upon the vehicle. Both these repair jobs are simple to perform and can be done at home.
Common Speedometer Problems
My speedometer is dead!
This could be due to two reasons. In older cars a break in the cable that connects the transmission to the speedometer is the most common cause. Cars produced after 1990 are usually equipped with speed sensors, which may crash and cease to transmit speed readings to the speedometer. A more serious problem could be a faulty speedometer head, which needs expert diagnosis.
The ‘check engine’ light came on after the speedometer stopped working
A problem that occurs with digital speed sensors is that they may malfunction and stop sending data to the car’s computer. When the computer tries to calculate road speed it does not receive any information, and as a result the ‘check engine’ light glows.
Replacing the speed sensor will solve this issue, however, if the ‘check engine’ light is not on, and the speedometer behaves erratically or stops working, it is recommended to try the cruise control system in the car, as it uses the same sensors.
If cruise control is working, and the check engine light is on, it may indicate a problem with the speedometer itself, and may require a change of the instrument panel. A ‘check engine’ light is a serious issue on its own and must be checked immediately.

Bouncing or jerking of speedometer
In cases where the speedometer does not settle on any particular reading but keeps moving between speeds, it is almost always due to bad wiring, in case of a cable system, or a faulty speed sensor. In most cases, only the wiring needs to be changed, or the sensors re-calibrated, to repair the problem.

Changes in the car
Speedometers are calibrated according to the radius and diameters of the factory-fitted tires of your car. These determinants can change, if you get custom tires which are larger, or if they are of different dimensions. The rate at which your tires cover ground changes and if the speedometer is not calibrated accordingly, it can show a faulty reading.

Troubleshooting Speedometer Problems
Instructions for removing speedometer cables
~ Remove the engine cover and take a look at where the cabling enters the main body of the car. You will see a thick black wire leading into the instrument cluster, this is the speedometer cable.
~ Take out the bolt from under the dashboard, so that you can easily access the old cable.
~ Also, remove the nut on the transmission and pull the cable out through the passage. Remove the clamps present on the transmission and engine compartment that hold the cable in place.
~ Once you have removed the old cable from your car, you need to replace it with a new one. In the adapter, fix the square end of the new cable and also tighten the nut on the rotating shaft.
~ Now, pass the new cable through the passage and tighten the bolt at its rear end. This end should be fixed at the speedometer’s square hold.
~ Fix back the clamps you earlier removed, and also put back the engine cover.
Replacing speed sensors on front wheel drive vehicles
~ You will find the speed sensor behind the engine, above the trans-axle.
~ Remove the connecting hose, air cleaner and electrical connector from above the sensor.
~ With help of a 10 mm socket, remove bolts keeping the sensor in place. Then, twist the sensor to take it out.
~ Attach a new O-ring to the sensor and clean the sensor flange and exterior sensor housing before re-installation.
~ Fix the new sensor in place and tighten bolts around it. Reattach the hose, air cleaner and electrical connector on to the sensor.
Replacing speed sensors on rear wheel drive vehicles
~ You will find the speed sensor on the driver’s side behind the transmission.
~ Raise the vehicle up from the driver’s side using a car jack.
~ Remove the wheel.
~ Disconnect electrical connectors present on the sensor and remove bolts, keeping the sensor in place, using a socket.
~ Remove the sensor carefully, and fix a new one in its place. Don’t forget to replace the old O-ring with a new one before installation. Attach the electrical connector to it, and tighten it.
Not every speedometer related problem needs a replacement job. It depends on the cause. In case the dial is the problem, you can easily replace the dial alone. Problems with the inbuilt computer will require replacement. It is therefore important to take your car to a mechanic and run a full diagnostic test, before jumping to any conclusions and attempting self-repairs.

Car Alternator Problems

Modern cars, trucks and caravans are well-equipped with every comfort one can imagine. All these appliances and the engine need loads of electric power to operate. Where does all this power come from? This requirement is satisfied by a very simple gadget, known as the ‘Alternator’. It is short for ‘Alternating Current Generator’. The efficiency of these devices is around 50 – 60%. Through the use of the alternator, which is a dynamo, your car generates its own electrical power and stores it in a rechargeable car battery. Ergo, it’s absolutely essential that you keep a check on the working of the alternator or you may be left high and dry with no power to drive your car!
How Does the Car Alternator Work?
The alternator creates electricity by exploiting a fundamental law of electromagnetism which is – ‘Changing magnetic field creates an electric field’. There are two important parts of the alternator – stator and the rotor. The rotor is essentially a set of three pairs of electromagnets with opposite poles facing each other, placed on a cylindrical disc. They are 120 degrees out of phase from each other. Stator is the stationary part placed at the center of the rotor disc.The rotor is attached to engine crankshaft, by a belt. Thus, an important part of this assembly is the alternator belt, which transfers engine torque to the rotor. When the engine is operational, crankshaft rotation makes the rotor go around. The revolving rotor creates a changing magnetic field. This field induces a three phase current in the central stator. A current is generated 120 degrees out of phase, by each of the magnet pairs. There are output terminals attached to the stator with separate windings for every phase.However, this output current is AC (Alternating Current) but the car accessories require DC (Direct Current) for operation. Therefore, AC to DC conversion is achieved by connecting the output current from stator to a double bridge rectifying diode circuit, which effectively does the job. So, one car alternator with such three sets of magnets generates a threefold current which is 120 degrees out of phase. The total voltage output of the alternator is around 14 V typically.

The DC output from the rectifier is fed to the battery which gets charged and it effectively ‘stores’ the generated electricity. For operating the electromagnets in the alternator, a voltage needs to be supplied from the battery at the start which is called ‘exciter’ voltage. The whole alternator assembly is supported by bearings for smooth rotation. Thus, chemical energy of the gasoline in your tank is converted into electrical energy, by an alternator.

Troubleshooting Car Alternator Problems
Any piece of electromechanical equipment is bound to breakdown at some point, if not maintained properly, due to the constant frictional forces. The car’s alternator is no exception to this. Keeping a tab on the performance of your car alternator and maintaining it is a simple job. Here’s an essential guide to troubleshooting alternator problems effectively. If your car’s headlights go dim often and electrical accessories experience problems, it’s but natural to suspect alternator issues. Here’s how you can go about diagnosing and solving problems.
– Check the ‘ALT’ Light
Observe the front panel of your car and see if a light marked as ‘ALT’ is glowing on the dashboard. If this LED is glowing, it’s a direct indication that the alternator output voltage has dropped substantially. It’s imperative that you test the alternator immediately.
– Testing the Alternator
The alternator has three operating stages, with each providing a certain voltage output. Therefore even if one stage or two stages fail, you may not notice, as some amount of voltage output is still charging the battery. Also, if you are not putting a lot of load on the battery, and all three stages have failed, still the car can operate on the reserve charge in the battery. This makes it difficult to diagnose whether source of the problem is the alternator.
The way to check out this problem and take care of it is quite simple. Set the engine on idling mode and check the voltage between the output terminals of the alternator by using a digital multimeter set on the voltage mode. If it has fallen below the maximum of 14 V, then there may be a stage failure. In case it’s indeed maximum at 14 V, check if it remains stable after you apply more load like the air conditioning. If it’s not remaining stable, you can be assured that the alternator is in need of repair. Test the battery output voltage too, as sometimes it’s a dead battery that’s the culprit.
– Check the Functioning of Electromagnets
Check if the electromagnets are operational by seeing if metal objects get attracted towards the alternator. Then check for unusual rumbling noise from the alternator. It may indicate that the bearings are wearing out. In that case, you may need to replace them soon. Check the rotor belt as it may slip or break. Replacements are easily available at your neighborhood car accessories store.
– Observe the Alternator Belt
A worn out or slackened alternator belt may be the reason for the alternator’s low voltage output. Open the hood and observe the alternator belt’s condition, along with its tension. If it’s worn out, get it replaced. In case it has lost tension, get your car to the nearest car repair center to get the belt tension adjusted precisely.
– Check For Loose Connections
A very common reason for problems in the working of most electrical devices is ‘Loose Wiring’. Check for loose connections that might be hampering the functioning of the alternator. Fixing them might restore functionality to normalcy.
Last but not the least, have a tried and trusted mechanic by your side for expert advice in case the symptoms of the problem go beyond your understanding. Always try to understand the solution of a car problem if it crops up, even if the mechanic solves it for you. Trust me it always helps and comes to your aid, when you are on your own.

Wheel Bearing Noise

Detecting the noise in wheel bearings can be a tricky job. However, with the correct understanding of how to diagnose the problem, it becomes easy to solve noise-related issues in wheel bearings. A rumbling or cyclic noise can be heard in wheel bearings with problems in their smooth functioning. If the driver senses even a slight problem in the smooth running of wheels, he should go for wheel bearing noise diagnosis. If the problem of bearing noise is not addressed in a timely manner, it can hamper the functioning of wheels.
Identifying Wheel Bearing Noise
The noise emanating from wheel bearings can differ from wheel to wheel depending on the degree of damage caused to them. At first, the noise originating from wheels might sound like a whistle. However, if the problem worsens, the noise could grow louder. Therefore, it is necessary to find out the exact cause of noise.
▶ A common trick used for identifying problems associated with wheel bears is checking whether noise heard at the time of acceleration and deceleration remains the same. One should drive the vehicle along a circular path, both clockwise and anti-clockwise, in order to find out which of the wheels (left or right) emits the sound caused by a damaged bearing.
▶ The noise originating from a wheel bearing doesn’t change with changing speeds; however, it might increase or decrease at the time of turning. Therefore, one can say that the noise heard at regular intervals, while driving at a steady speed, is a sign of problem associated with bearings.
▶ Do not confuse wheel bearing noise with that produced by a damaged CV joint; both the problems are different from each other and they need be dealt with separately.
▶ Noise produced by wheel bearings is a result of lack of lubrication and in some cases, physical damage caused to them. Friction between dry areas of bearings produces a humming sound; the sound repeats at regular intervals.
▶ A mechanical jack proves to be of great help in lifting the car; wheels (i.e. bearings) can be easily diagnosed for wheel bearing noise. While spinning the wheel with one hand, one should place the other hand on the strut assembly. If there is any problem in the smooth functioning of wheel bearing, a noise can be heard.
It is necessary to lift the vehicle to find out the side from which the noise originates. Wiggling the tire back and forth should helps us understand whether the tire is fitted loosely or not.
Front Wheel Bearing Noise
▶ The front wheel should be checked for noise as well as lubrication.
▶ Servicing of the front wheel bearing should be done every 30,000 miles.
▶ At the time of driving, listen carefully to any sound originating from wheels.
▶ Noise originating from the floorboard indicates that the problem is not related to wheel bearing; in fact, it could originate in any other part of the vehicle.
Rear Wheel Bearing Noise
▶ Noise produced by the rear and front wheel bearings is almost the same. In such cases, diagnosing the problem associated with bearing noise can be difficult.
▶ In one of the methods used for diagnosing such kind of noise, the vehicle is driven at a constant speed; slight changes to the speed are occasionally made. It is important that you vary the speed because there are certain cars which make noise only at certain speeds.
▶ The dangers associated with wheel bearing noise shouldn’t go undetected. It must be dealt with or repaired at the earliest.
While diagnosing the problem of wheel bearing noise, one should check if there are any cracks on the surface of the bearing. Even smaller cracks can later on cause big problems. To detect the minute cracks, one should diagnose the bearing in bright light. Cracked, pitted or worn out bearings should be replaced. The parts which bear the hub bore and spindles should also be checked for any kind of damage. At the time of inspection, one should check if there is any damage caused to the bearing hub bore; its fitting should also be checked. If the bearing hub bore doesn’t fit properly, it calls for replacement of the drum or rotor or hub. One should also check whether spindles are aligned properly. In few cases the spindles might not be aligned in a straight line; thus, it becomes necessary to carry out proper diagnosis of the problem. The steering knuckle should be replaced if there is any problem in the operation of spindles.
Working of Bearings
A bearing is a machine component which performs the function of constraining the relative motion between moving parts of the machine. The act of constraining the relative motion is aimed at facilitating only a certain kind of motion (differs from machine to machine). The different types of motions permitted by bearings are linear motion, axial rotation, hinge motion and spherical rotation.
One should conduct a careful diagnosis of the worn out and damaged parts of the vehicle to determine the exact cause of wheel bearing noise. In some cases, it is not possible to find out the problem on our own. In such instances, consulting an expert should be the right thing to do.